After spending 5 glorious days soaking up the sun, we thought it was time to explore some Mexican culture in the surrounding area. We rented a car and it came with a map in the glove compartment.  ‘Hey’ I thought, ‘No matter how many left turns we make today, we shouldn’t get lost.’

Five minutes from our Playa Azul Cabana we joined the main highway and turned left and set off towards Felipe Carrillo Puerto, a bustling little town further inland and the gateway to the little towns in the heart of Mexico.

Seeing as we were on a mission to learn about the local culture, we turned on the radio and found some energetic Mexican music.

After making a right turn to the west from Felipe Carillo we eventually approached one little town after another, and at the entrance of each one, we were warned to slow down by the ‘topes’ – speed bump signs. Some of these innocent-looking bumps actually have the capability of dismantling your rental car’s transmission from its lodging if you hit them too hard and fast.

The main highways intentionally lead the traffic into the heart of each little Mayan town so you won’t miss anything. Once there, you will find many long lights or stop signs giving the tourists opportunities to park and enter the little shops in the ‘zocolo’ – town square.  The zocolo is filled with people of all ages.  The elderly are usually found sitting on one of the many park benches discussing various important topics – on this weekend the topic was the up-coming Federal election.  As I overheard some of these debates, I began to understand and appreciate the Mayans more and more.  The discussions were carried on with utmost respect for one another.  No one tried to speak louder than the other or cut them off.  They allowed one another the time to finish their thoughts without interruption.

The ladies, young and old, wear white ankle-length dresses that are decorated with flowery lace embroidery.  The men wear the customary white long sleeve pullover with white full-length pants, topped with wide-brimmed white cowboy hats to shade the sun.

The ‘trabajadores’ – laborers – work outside all day.  The ladies wash clothes by hand and hang them on clothes lines strung from the many decorative trees.  They cook outside as their homes are hotter than the oven itself.  There are open fires in every yard.  The smell of smoke and ‘asado’ grilled chicken hangs in the air as we stroll through the less-travelled dirt roads.  Kids are playing soccer and don’t quit until their parents call them to eat.  The men, sitting on tree stumps, eagerly wait with plates in hand.

Every yard has chickens and turkeys of all sizes.  Some newly-hatched are caged for their own protection.

Even with the heat of the day, the Mariachi bands regale the streets in elegant suits covered in tasseled buttons and fringes. The music is joyous and loud.

Our camera is full of photos and our stomachs with ‘lemonada’ – lemonade – as we return to our Playa Azul Cabana, we both feel fulfilled with the day’s activities.

Reflecting back I am full of admiration for the Mayan people and the laid-back life they lead.

Some of the wonderful traditions celebrated here in Mexico can take you a little by surprise and others can sneak up on you.

Sometimes a growing cacophony of honking, blaring music and singing will cause pedestrians to pause to wait for the parade procession to appear around a corner while taxis make mad dashes to escape the hubbub before partygoers on slow moving floats shorten their workdays.

And then some traditions are a little more subtle, missing the fanfare yet just as moving and important.

My May trip to Tulum coincided with one of the more subtle traditions, marked by huge crosses I saw on many construction sights in a new section of Tulum.

At first I thought that a famous person had died that morning; a dignitary or Mexican rock star, but the crosses were so colorfully decorated with crepe paper and bows that I thought the decorations looked too happy and whimsical to show respect for the death of someone important. Plus, the workmen on the job sites were happy and smiling.

I took some photos of the crosses that seemed so small on top of the buildings, but I caught one being set up and by the heights of the construction crew hammering and wiring it into place knew the cross was at least six feet high.

The crosses were quite beautiful, and some had long trails of tissue paper wafting around in the wind. I could hear some of the tin foil used for effect and pie plates tinkling together on some.

When I arrived back at Playa Azul Tulum, I asked my new friend  Ricardo at the front desk the story behind the crosses, and he explained to me that once a year the Mexican ‘trabajadoras’ the laborers, place a cross above their worksites, for God to see and pour blessings and safety over the people working there for the following year.

I thought to myself, ‘What a wonderful custom’, and it certainly looked pretty above the townscapes to see all the beautiful crosses with their colors and tails of colors waving in the wind.

I just love Tulum, with all its wonderful smiling people and their delightful idyllic customs.

I had heard a little about the Mexican celebration called ‘Cinco de Mayo’, and since I was very curious to learn more about this land I was visiting, I grabbed my smart phone and went online in the restaurant at Playa Azul Tulum.

I read that ‘Cinco de Mayo’ translates to ‘fifth of May’, and the day is greeted with fireworks and a day off from work and school to reflect on its meaning. It marks the day of the ‘Battle of Puebla in 1862’.

The reason the celebration is so memorable for the Mexicans is it represents their victory in a David and Goliath-style battle against the highly-armed French fleet in 1862.
I discovered that when the ill-prepared Mexican band of 4,500 inexperienced soldiers fought off the brutal attack from 6,500 highly trained french soldiers from sunup to sunset on May 5th, 1862, the sheer bravery, faith and ferocity of the patriotic Mexicans forced the French to return to Europe to reorganize and increase their army to 30,000 for their renewed attack on Mexico the following year.

Even though the French eventually won against the Mexicans and governed the country for 6 years under the rule of  Archduke Maximilian of Austria, Napolean’s nephew, the Mexicans celebrate their victory at ‘Battle of Puebla in 1862’ as a symbol of the country’s ability to defend its independence with faith and bravery.

Later, as I lay in my hammock soaking in the tranquility of the Caribbean, I closed my eyes and imagined what it might have been like to be a young teenager back in 1862, enjoying my adolescence in this idyllic and beautiful country then being called into joining an army for a seemingly losing battle to defend it the next.

The bravery and patriotism of these young men protecting their right to govern their own land against a marauding foreign land set to exploit them is a fine example of what makes a country a home, and the kind of patriotism that the Mexican people stand for.

I am so glad that I am free to come and go in this beautiful land, to appreciate it and love it, as those brave souls did so many years ago; a love and faith so much stronger than their reality that they could not win against the Goliath that came to take it from them.
I love Tulum, and I love this land that welcomes me with the smiling families and dignified souls that have grown from a love of a land and of itself; in the tradition that a proud and dignified nation comes from.